Bar LEDs are extraordinarily common. The one downside with utilizing bar LEDs in develop tents is that they take up the whole footprint of the tent. So we have now devised 4 easy suggestions to assist over come this difficulty. 0:00 Intro 0:17 Why you should not have low lights 1:01 1. Dim your LED 1:24 2. Use tall tents 1:43 3 Swap to Inline Filters 2:07 4 Add CO2 to your develop house 2:46 Outro Head to our web site Or give us a name 0333 003 22 95 Discover GroWell on social Fb – Twitter – Instagram –

37 Replies to “4 Must Do’s for Bar LED Grow Lights | Hints & Tips”

  1. I’m reusing LEDs from a stip light usaly found in public toilets or schools but specs from online say they can be used as they have the full spectrum of sunlight but no dimmer switch where could I get one

  2. You should put grow tent in the title so people with larger gardens know what they are clicking on.. Needless to say that has nothing to do with the quality and detail of your video bro! Great job 💯

    1. My best way. Three 1 liters or two 1 liters and a small soda bottles clear on the last one. Get air tubing line, about 2½feet. First bottle 1 table spoon yeast, instant isn’t the best, you’ll want a slow expanding one. I just use the best choice jar.

      Get warm warm water fill the first liter half way with warm water, the second 60 to 65% up. The drill one hole in 1 cap then drill two holes in thelast two. cap. Put one tube in the 1hole cap on first bottle filled and with 1 to 2 table spoons of yeast. Mix shake well before you drill the hole actually lol. Then put the air tube all the way down to the bottom,

      then get the tube and connect to the first hole and put it about 3 to 4 inches under water, second tube connect that and put about 2 to 3 inches in the bottle just make sure it’s above the water, that tube will be where the qfiltered gas comes out and how you can see that it’s making co2, the last bottle, I like a small one for this. Connect the tub and have about 2 to 3 inches under water. Another tube partial like the previous, then connect to the second bottle tube suspending again. But that will leave you to lay the tube or split it and lay it near whatever plants needs it the most.

  3. Just dim it down to 50% and lower it down to 12” distance. That should do it. Where is the efficiency in putting 700 W in a 4’x4′ ?

    1. For a tent that size we would recommend 4 x Exolux Pro Sirius LED’s. Most Bar LED’s in the 600W – 630W range cover a 1.2 x 1.2m area.

  4. I’ve got a 180cm tent 200cm and 230cm but I found it easier to use a cmh with 2 mars sp250s and I’ve got heaps of room but found with my hlg needs to be on about 90 or 80% to get the effectiveness but I’ve noticed mixing cmh with led or hps is really good way to grow, I still think my cmh dose better than most leds for cost size and the heat is less than running 2 sp 250s

    1. That’s definitely a better way than LEDs. You’re getting certain radiations that induce flowering. That’s why LEDs will veg well, but by themselves flower weak.

    2. @Kid Dynamite yeah Man led make nice buds but not as large and yeah cmh is the way to go with spread and quality light but led is so cheap that’s what I like the mixture I’ve been using the migro uvb light and it dose work abit I noticed bigger yield but I changed bulbs to more red so it’s probably that but have noticed a touch stronger, usually just put it on for 1 and a half hours but yeah man I use the leds to fill in spaces that need light so i don’t need another cmh as overkill, I did use the 600w cmh replacement bulb in hps but still would rather 2x cmh.

    3. @Robert Miller I’m glad you mentioned something, as you have worked with both LED, and HPS. I take my yield into account with my cost. I’m not a heavy user, so 1 grow a year has me set with meds. I also still have many of the clone only- old school phenotypes from way back. I think the quality of the genetics sold have fallen off greatly in the last 12 years. If you want, check out some of my grows on Cannabis Connection (a space in Quora).

    1. If you’ve got the available space outside your tent this is definitely a good call regardless of what lighting system your using, as it makes working in the grow space so much easier.

  5. There are hot spots if your ballast is attached to the light. If the ballast is removable move that sucker outta your tent….. Also for new growers know there is no such thing as a climate CONTROLLED tent. The tent is just as hot or cold as outside the tent… The tents only gonna get hotter. If you have a mini split you can put it in the tent but know your fans will extract that air but if the extracted air is going into the grow room (Which it really shouldn’t but im not writing an article here) then it will make the ambient temperature cooler.

  6. If you grow in a tent and exhaust it with fans, then adding CO2 is pretty much worthless. youd think they would know that

    1. When you’re adding CO2 either through a canister or mushroom bag, you’re introducing more CO2 into the growing environment than you would with a normal in-take fan from outside. Plus CO2 is a heavier gas meaning in general it’ll concentrate lower in the tent, away from the extraction system at the top of the tent.
      So will you extract some CO2 with an extraction system? Yes, but nowhere near the amount of CO2 you’re adding.
      Plus if you’re worried about extracting it all away you can always turn down your extraction system to a lower setting.

    2. My cheap co2 set up. I have a 4×4 in a small room about 10ft long and 7ft wide. With a fish tank co2 generator. filled with 400g or bicarbonate of soda and 400g of citric acid…both cleaning product quality. + 600ml of water. running at 800-1200 ppm as the grow progresses (waveform from of 150ppm). each refill cost about $2.40 and last 4 days 24/7 as I run 24 hour light. . But do open up for half an hour and refresh the room each night.

      Tank and controller outside the tent with tube going in and placed above the canopy. Two vents open on the tent like scoopes and it all just circulates around the small room and tent. I get longer more economical waveforms at 82F – 85f which is higher than my old style of 78f. I only run the system for about 5 weeks in the centre of a 10 week auto’s grow. so the last 2 weeks of veg and first 3 of flower. as I want lower temps at the end without reducing the light, ( i.e open the window.) as the lower temps preserve the terpenes, but in summer I still have to drop to 3/4 power to achieve the heat reduction.

      Also high humidity, increases the wave form as it hangs in the air longer. so 70% is fine at those higher temps in that stage of the grow, Hence why I stop in later flower, as I want lower humidity of 50- 60%. app controlled humidifier in the tent. but dehumidifier outside tent if required. I run my 6 inch AC infinity at levels 4 and 5. triggering 6 occasionally. which keeps the system stable 4L Tank was about $120 with solenoid and Digital CO2 Carbon Dioxide IAQ Monitor Controller. was $140. has a light out cut off. My yield has gone from 14-17 per run to 21-23oz in four 16 L pots Coco perlite… under lumatek 600w pro Using advanced nutrients PH perfect range.

    1. @UbiquitousRomp I gave you how many chances to show me. NOT ONCE?? NOT A SINGLE VID, PIC, OR LINK. Ask around about “Doc”

    2. @Kid Dynamite You seem, to over value your own self worth. You’ve said nothing really, apart from demonstrating how high you get on you own HTC.

      At least you’ve impressed yourself.

    3. @UbiquitousRomp No, I just want someone to prove me wrong. Everyone has an opinion, and a big mouth, but nobody has put up a dam thing. My self worth has nothing to do with the facts. I believe what I see. I’ve been doing this longer than most growers have been alive (no not happy about that part)

    4. @Kid Dynamite The dispensaries around me all use LEDs…..I average 2-3 pounds per 600 watt LED light. LEDs are the way to go.
      Of the thousands of grows on Rollitup, Growdiaries, etc you have never seen one grow that compares to your HPS grows? Bullshit.

  7. Its my first grow in 10+ years i just bought a fc3000 in a 3×3 tent. Any height advice for veg and flower and at what power setting? Any advice would be appreciated thanks

    1. For a 300W LED start roughly 1.2m – 1.5m above your plants. If you’ve just transplanted or potted up about 50% power should be used initially. Gradually increase the intensity and lower the fixture to 1.2m above the canopy throughout veg. Then for flowering lower the fixture to roughly 70cm – 80cm above the plant canopy.
      This is a rough guide based off other 300W LED’s we sell, can’t speak specifically for the FC3000 as we don’t stock it, so keep an eye and adjust as you see fit.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *